Imagine embarking on a 1,450-kilometer journey through history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes—all on two wheels. But here’s where it gets controversial: what if the very thing that inspired this adventure was the frustration of transporting a bicycle into Europe? That’s exactly what led me to pedal the entire length of the Rhine, from the North Sea to the Swiss Alps, on Europe’s first certified long-distance cycle path. And let me tell you, it was anything but ordinary.
The Rhine Cycle Route, or EV15, is part of the ambitious EuroVelo network—a 99,000-kilometer cycling web set to crisscross Europe by 2030. This particular route is 87% car-free, meticulously marked, and accessible to everyone, from Lycra-clad cyclists to families on e-bikes. But is it as perfect as it sounds? Spoiler alert: not always. Yet, it’s this very imperfection that makes it so captivating.
My journey began with a simple Google search for car-free routes from London to Switzerland. Frustrated by the logistics of transporting my road bike to the French Alps, I decided to ride it there instead. Little did I know, this detour would lead me to one of Europe’s most culturally rich and historically significant cycling paths.
And this is the part most people miss: the Rhine isn’t just a river; it’s a living tapestry of myth, romance, and conflict dating back to Roman times. As I whizzed along its banks, I couldn’t help but feel connected to centuries of history. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing—or should I say, pedaling. The route took me through Dutch polders, past the Alsace Wine Route, and alongside the Rhine Falls, but it also led me down dubious paths that felt more like wasteland than wonderland.
Traveling light was a must. With just one bag on my handlebars and another on my saddle, totaling 6kg, I embraced minimalism. My road bike, with its skinny 25mm tires, promised speed but sacrificed comfort—a trade-off I soon regretted on bumpy stretches. Here’s a thought-provoking question: In the age of e-bikes and convenience, is there still value in the grit and grind of traditional cycling?
Starting in the Netherlands, a country where cycling is practically a religion, I quickly learned the local road rules. Did you know that Dutch-style roundabouts in the UK required a YouTube tutorial for confused drivers? It’s a small detail, but it highlights the cultural shift needed to embrace cycling as a way of life.
As I crossed into Germany, the landscape shifted dramatically. From the industrial brutality of Duisburg to the Gothic grandeur of Cologne Cathedral, every mile told a story. But it was the Rhine Gorge, with its legend of the siren Lorelei, that truly captured my imagination. Is it just me, or does slow travel force us to appreciate the journey more than the destination?
The encounters along the way were just as memorable. A long-distance racer let me draft behind him for hours, sharing jokes and wisdom. A nunnery offered shelter during a thunderstorm, where Sister Angeline shared her concerns about the dying community. These moments of connection reminded me why cycling is more than just a physical challenge—it’s a human experience.
But here’s the controversial bit: As I neared the end, I couldn’t shake the feeling that some parts of the route were more hype than substance. The digital navigation often failed, and the 'best bits' felt rushed. Wouldn’t it be easier—and perhaps more enjoyable—to skip the less scenic sections? Or does that defeat the purpose of the journey?
Ending in the Swiss Alps, I found myself immersed in the Romansh language, a relic of Roman soldiers from 15 BCE. It was a fitting conclusion to a journey that spanned cultures, languages, and centuries. So, I ask you: Is the Rhine Cycle Route a must-do adventure, or is it overrated? Share your thoughts in the comments—I’d love to hear your take.
Plan Your Own Adventure:
- Route: 1,450km from the Hook of Holland to the Oberalp Pass in the Swiss Alps.
- Best Time: May to October for ideal weather and long days.
- Navigation: Download EV15 GPX files and maps from EuroVelo 15. Don’t forget to check e-bike charging and repair points.
- Highlights: Rhine Gorge, Cologne Cathedral, Basel’s Old Town, Lake Constance, and the Rhine Falls.
Whether you’re a seasoned cyclist or a curious beginner, the Rhine Cycle Route promises an adventure like no other. Just remember: it’s not just about the destination—it’s about the stories you collect along the way.
