Prepare to be captivated by the unique charm of The Owl, a masterpiece crafted by L'Atelier Bernard that has left collectors in awe. This limited edition timepiece, with only six pieces ever made, showcases the incredible talent of young watchmakers Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz. Their innovative approach to design and mechanics has created a watch that is nothing short of extraordinary.
The Owl is a true artisanal creation, blending unconventional aesthetics with an equally unconventional movement. Imagine a watch that challenges traditional norms, where the dial is inverted, revealing a vibrant mix of colors and textures. The large, slow-beating balance, powered by a rare duplex escapement, captures your attention and leaves you wondering about the story behind this extraordinary timepiece.
But here's where it gets controversial... The Owl's movement is a fascinating blend of highly refined and rustic finishes. The lavishly engine-turned barrels, a personal favorite for barrel decoration, contrast with the simply grained mainplate. It's a bold statement, a playful contrast that hints at the youthful energy and perspective of its creators. And this is the part most people miss - the intentional contrast gives the watch a unique personality, setting it apart from the crowd.
The stainless steel case, with its strong angular lugs, pays homage to the Cornes de Vache style, yet modernizes it with a unique sloped profile. This design choice reveals a stunning side view of the unusual oscillator, thanks to a cylindrical sapphire crystal. It's an ambitious debut, and one that has left many collectors eager to see what L'Atelier Bernard will create next.
Now, let's talk about the duplex escapement. This frictional rest, deadbeat tangential impulse escapement is a true rarity in modern times. Invented in the 18th century, the duplex was once a superior system compared to the cylinder escapement. However, it fell out of favor due to the advent of more precise detached lever escapements. The duplex has two sets of teeth, providing dissociated locking and impulse functions. It's a complex mechanism, and one that requires great craftsmanship to ensure flawless operation.
L'Atelier Bernard has put their own twist on the duplex, incorporating it into The Owl's rustic elements. The escape wheel, for example, has tall pins instead of the conventional second level of impulse teeth. This unique interpretation adds to the watch's overall character and charm.
The Owl's duplex is a sight to behold, with its slow 1.5 Hz frequency giving a sense of slowed time. The large cut and screwed balance wheel oscillates at a relaxed pace, creating a unique visual experience. And despite its slow beating, the watch keeps an impressive rate of -/+ 3 seconds per day, a testament to the skill of its makers.
The finishing on The Owl is a generous blend of haute horlogerie and rustic touches. The parachute shock absorbers, securing both the balance and escape wheel pivot jewels, add a sense of utility and robustness. The grained surfaces, paired with the soft yellowish-grey German Silver, create a beautiful contrast. And let's not forget the exquisite gold inlaying and concave bevelling, mastered by Bernard Braboretz, which adds a touch of elegance to the watch.
The guillochage on the barrel drums is truly a work of art, executed with precision on a hand-operated rose engine. The wavy pattern, inspired by feathers, seamlessly transitions between surfaces, creating a captivating visual effect. Turning the watch over reveals another stunning view - the expertly black-polished click wheels and the dominant center wheel, a testament to the watch's unique architecture.
With a diameter of 39 mm and a height of 14.5 mm, The Owl is a statement piece. Its stainless steel case, sapphire crystal, and 50m water resistance make it a durable and versatile timepiece. The in-house caliber, with its duplex escapement, powers the hours and minutes functions, offering a 45-hour power reserve. And let's not forget the leather strap, adding a touch of sophistication to the overall design.
Priced at CHF150,000 excluding taxes, The Owl is a true collector's item. All six pieces have been sold, and collectors eagerly await the next creation from L'Atelier Bernard. This watch is a testament to the talent and vision of its makers, and it leaves us wondering - what will they come up with next?
So, what do you think? Is The Owl a masterpiece of modern watchmaking, or does it fall short of expectations? We'd love to hear your thoughts in the comments below!
